What is Garment Components?
The front and the back body, sleeve, cuff, placket, yoke, collar and pocket need to be assembled together in order to make a shirt. Hems, stitches, seams, bonding, fusing, or combination of these, is used to assemble the garment components into a complete structure.
SLEEVES
What Are Sleeves?
A sleeve is the part of a clothing item, whether a dress, blouse, jacket, sweater and more, that covers the arm.
Sleeves can come in a variety of lengths—short, mid-length, or long.
All sleeves have an opening at the end that the hand and arm pass through, and sometimes the sleeve extends beyond the hand.
Sleeves can be either tight or loose, depending on the style of the sleeve.
A garment that ends at the shoulder line is generally referred to as sleeveless.
16 Different Types of Sleeves
There are many different sleeve styles that can be loose and flowy, structured or puffy, long or short, and can be made from any kind of fabric.
Set-in sleeve. A set-in sleeve is a sleeve that is attached to the garment’s armhole and sewn all the way around. Most sleeves, if they are not continuous with the bodice’s fabric are set-in sleeves.
Bell sleeves. Also called peasant sleeves, this long sleeve is fitted around the shoulder and upper arm and flares out to the wrist, like a bell.
Cap sleeves. A cap sleeve is an extremely short sleeve that doesn’t extend very far from the shoulder and doesn’t go below the armpit. It can have a gathered, elastic seam or a loose seam.
Kimono sleeves. A kimono sleeve is a sleeve that is in one piece with the garment’s bodice and is not sewn on separately. The sleeve is generally wide with a uniform circumference throughout. These are generally used for Chinese-style robes, not Japanese kimonos, despite their name. For a Japanese kimono, the sleeves are usually sewn separately.
Raglan sleeves. A raglan sleeve extends from a garment's neckline, rather than from the shoulder, and this allows better movement. This type of sleeve is used for baseball t-shirts.
Bishop sleeves. A bishop sleeve flares out from the shoulder, giving volume to the sleeve all the way to the cuff, where the fabric is tightly gathered.
Butterfly sleeves. Like a bell sleeve, a butterfly sleeve flares out from the shoulder, but it usually does not fully cover the arm.
Flutter sleeves. A flutter sleeve is very similar to a butterfly sleeve except it is generally a little shorter and wider, falling loosely
Dolman sleeves. This is a type of sleeve that has a very deep armhole, and the sleeve gets progressively narrower to the wrist. This type of sleeve is also called a batwing sleeve, due to its likeness to wings.
Puffed sleeves. A puffed sleeve is gathered at the shoulder and at the seam but is full and “puffy” in the middle.
Cape sleeves. Cape sleeves are full and flowing sleeves that look like capes. The fabric is gathered at the shoulder and flares out like a cape from there.
Lantern sleeves. A lantern sleeve is a long sleeve that balloons out between the wrist and the elbow and then gathers again around the wrist.
Balloon sleeves. Balloon sleeves are long, puffed sleeves that are gathered at the shoulder and then puffed out and gather back at the wrist. Sometimes, the sleeve puffs out lower than the shoulder, but it is still a full puff rather than a tapered flare.
Slit sleeves. A slit sleeve is a sleeve that has a slit down the center usually exposing part of the arm. This sleeve can also be called a cold shoulder sleeve.
Leg-of-mutton sleeves. This sleeve is gathered and puffed by the shoulder and upper arm and then fitted on the forearm. This style of sleeve somewhat resembles a sheep’s leg, hence the name.
T-shirt sleeve. A t-shirt sleeve is a short, set-in sleeve that starts at the shoulder and ends at the middle of the upper arm.
Reference
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/240450067578455457/
COLLARS
The Main Types of Collars
The Stand Collar - A stand collar is a collar that stands up and fits around the neck a Mandarin collar is an example of a stand collar.
The Flat Collar - A lot of collar styles fall into this category but whatever they may be they must lay flat against the main fabric to fall into this category. A winged collar is a great example of a flat collar.
The Roll Collar - A roll collar is basically a stand collar that folds over the collar stand. This collar is mostly found in shirts, especially mens business shirts that require wearing a tie.
Women’s Collar Types
The Convertible Collar
The convertible collars are great because as the name says it can be converted into a collar that lays flat opened up or it can be buttoned up.
The Sailor Collar
This collar is based on the collars that we can see in a classical sailor uniform, it is made of square panels that fold down from the neckline. This style of a collar became very popular for children in the Victorian era when Queen Victoria dressed her son Prince Albert Edward in a sailor suit. This style is popular for women but because of Queen Victoria and her son it is widely used in children clothing.
The Turtle Neck
This is a very popular collar that you either hate or love in my opinion. Many people wear turtlenecks in winter as they keep the neck warm without the need for a scarf. It is a stand up collar, it can have different heights for different styles. It can also be rolled down or bunched around the neck.
The Notched Collar
This style is based on the lapel (rever) collar shape. It is mainly used with blazers.
The Shirt Collar
This is a basic stand collar that can be seen on both men’s or women's shirts. Depending on the style that you want your garment to be the collar can either be buttoned down or stand up. The points of the shirt collar can also be longer or shorter but generally this collar type is very standard for shirts.
The Rounded Flat Collar
This collar is very similar to the peter pan collar but it lays completely flat on the main fabric. The rounded parts can be large or smaller depending on the style you’re going for.
The Wing Collar
This collar is also known as the Whisk Collar. It has a stiff band that stands up. The wings tips of this collar stand up forming a wing tip effect.
The Chelsea Collar
This collar is a perfect match for a V neckline. It has squared tips and it has a medium to a wide cut depending on what overall style you want your garment to be.
The Peter Pan Collar
This is a very common collar that is round and lies flat on the neck. It has curved edges and it is very small and delicate.
The Pointed Flat Collar
This is a narrow cut collar with squared ends that are at the center front of the collar. This collar is sewed onto a rounded neckline.
The Shawl Collar
This collar has a very wide lapel(rever) and is turned down. It is called the shawl collar because it has an appearance of wrapping around like a shawl would.
The Cowlneck
This collar is made from fabric that fold over itself and drapes around the neck. It’s perfect for use with lightweight fabrics such as silk or satin.
The Johnny Collar
This is a small high standing collar. It is always sewn onto a V-Neck neckline but the collar doesn’t go down to the end of the V of the neckline.
The Crewneck
This is a very short standing collar that goes all the way around the neckline. It is mainly used in long sleeves and t-shirts. It is usually made out of a ribbed knit that is in a contrasting colour to the main fabric or the same colour as the main fabric.
The Ruffle Collar
This collar is made out of a gathered or pleated piece of fabric that ruffles around the neckline. These collars are also known as the milestone collars. This collar was very stylish back in the 17th century and the Renaissance Era, back then they were usually very long whereas now they tend to be made short.
The Mandarin Collar
This is a form of a stand up collar that was adapted from China by the fashion industry.
The Bib Collar
The bib collar is also known as a Dickie. It’s a fake collar that can be sewn or stitched onto a low-cut neckline. You can make it detachable or permanent. In today’s fashion detachable Dickie/ Bib Collars are worn over a t-shirt.
The Cascade Collar
This collar is a collar that drapes over the main fabric in the front. It is made by cutting out a circle and sewing on/attaching it onto the front of the neckline.
The Jabot
This is a collar that was mostly popular in the 19th century. It has a very gothic style. It forms a decorative frill at the front of the neckline. It is usually made out of a lace fabric that is formed into ruffles.
The Bow Tie Collar
This collar has two long pieces/ sashes that can be tied into a bow. The wider and longer your sash is the bigger your bow can be.
The Bertha Collar
This is a large round collar that can either be just at the front (more common in today’s fashion) or all the way around the neckline. It lays flat on the main fabric and is usually made with lace. It can be round or square in shape depending on the overall style you’re going for.
Reference
https://www.ministryofpatterns.com/blog/types-of-collars NECKLINES
Types of neckline
1. Asymmetrical Neckline
Most of the time, the asymmetrical neckline is one that goes from the top of one shoulder to under the arm of the other should. This is also referred to as the “one shoulder”.
One thing to note, though, is that asymmetrical can also refer to a neckline that is not mirrored on both sides. So if 2 sides of a neckline are different, it is an asymmetrical neckline.
2. Boatneck (aka Bateau)
A boatneck, or bateau, neckline is one that is very wide and goes past the collarbone and rests on the shoulders. It is a higher neckline which draws the attention to shoulders and lower neck.
The neckline is very simple and feminine and looks beautiful with a dainty necklace.
3. Collared
A collared neckline is exactly what it sounds like, it’s a shirt with a collar! Collared necklines can be with or without a button and the collar itself can come in a variety of ways large, small, decorative or plain.
4. Cowl Neck
A cowl neck is when there is extra fabric cut at the top of your shirt or dress that drapes or folds around the neckline. The fabric typically drapes just below or around the collarbone. This neckline is a very flattering neckline.
Cowl necklines have been very popular since the 1930s but it’s been said they were inspired by the Ancient Greek.
5. Crew Neck
The crew neckline is the most common neckline for t-shirts. It’s round that sits above the collarbone close to the neck. This type of neckline looks best on people with longer necks.
6. Halter Neck
The halter neckline is when the straps of the top connect behind the neck leaving the shoulders bare. This type of neckline often has a low cut or open back.
It typically drops down towards the bust and can create either a v-neck, sweetheart style or even a keyhole neckline. The straps are either sewn together or could also be tied together by the person wearing it.
7. Illusion Neckline
An illusion neckline is a combination of both a low neckline and a high neckline. The low neckline typically is a strapless neckline (sweetheart style is very common) while the high neckline is a sheer or lace fabric creating an illusion of a higher neckline.
Wedding dresses are seen with this type of neckline quite a bit.
8. Jewel Neckline
A jewel neckline is a higher neckline similar to the turtleneck. It’s somewhat round and doesn’t have a collar.
8. Keyhole Neckline
A keyhole neckline is make a hole in the front of your top. The fabric creates somewhat a v shape at the bottom and connects at the top creating a gap in the middle. A keyhole can be small or large!
9. Off Shoulder Neckline
An off the shoulder neckline is when the fabric rests off the shoulders to create a very wide opening. It showcases your collarbone and shoulders while the sleeves cover a bit of your upper arm.
This is very flattering on most women especially those with narrow shoulders and medium to full chests. Keep in mind that this style shows off your arms and shoulders.
10. Plunging
The plunging neckline creates a very deep v that typically extends past the cleavage. It differs from a v-neck because the v-neck typically stops at the top of the chest while the plunging neckline goes much below.
This is also referred to as a décolleté neckline.
11. Queen Anne
The Queen Anne neckline is a mix of a sweetheart neckline with a high neck. This neckline is named after England’s Queen Anne is a very common neckline for brides.
13. Scallop Neckline
The scalloped neckline has small half circle cut outs along the entire neckline. These can be either small or large and facing either towards the neck or towards the bodice.
This is a beautiful neckline that is a great option for formal wear.
14. Scoop Neck
The scoop neck has been around for decades. It’s a classic look used for dress and shirts alike. It features a wide, scooping, neckline that creates a deep U shape.
This is a very flattering neckline that is often times seen in the summer time.
15. Semi-Sweetheart
If you keep scrolling just a few you’ll see the sweetheart style description. The semi sweetheart neckline is a less dramatic version of the sweetheart. It has the rounded, heart shape that creates a v at the middle.
16. Spaghetti Strap
The spaghetti strap top is a very versatile neckline that can be use along with a variety of other necklines. It features two thin straps which rest at the top of your shoulders (the strap resembles spaghetti noodles, hence the name).
17. Square
The square neckline creates the a square shape! It’s most often times cut wide and low to show off your collarbone.
18. Strapless
The strapless neckline is an incredibly popular choice for formal dresses, like wedding dresses. It is a neckline that stays up without any straps leaving the shoulders bare.
This type of neckline looks good on those women with larger chests and beautiful shoulders and collarbones while small chested women might find this style not as flattering.
19. Strapless Sweetheart
One of the most popular versions of the sweetheart neckline is the strapless sweetheart. This style, as the name hints at, is shaped like the top half of a heart which creates a “v” at the middle.
20. Surplice
A surplice neckline is what you would see on a bathrobe with one part of the neckline overlapping the other side, creating a faux wrap style. The difference between a wrap style and a surplice neckline is the fabric is sewn into place with a surplice but not with a wrap.
This neckline is very often confused with a v-neck since they both create a v at the top.
21. Sweetheart
A sweetheart neckline has a curved heart shaped style that accentuates the décolletage. It has a dip in the middle which somewhat resembles a v-neck. It’s a very popular neckline choice for wedding gowns!
It’s also very flattering on most body shapes. It was first seen in the 1940s.
22. Turtleneck
A turtleneck is also called a polo neck! This neckline fit high and close fitting around your neck. It most often has excess fabric that is folded down.
Other versions of this is the mock turtleneck (or mock polo neck) where the fabric stands up around the neck and isn’t folded over itself.
These were originally created in the 15th century to protect the necks of knights wearing chainmail. It was then adopted by royalty with the addition of ruffles to indicate their status.
23. V-neck
Like many of the necklines mentioned above, the v-neck is what the name says! It’s a “v” shape that can be either in the front of the back (or both!). This can be a short V or a plunging V, whichever you prefer, making it adaptable to everyone!
Reference
https://paisleyandsparrow.com/types-of-necklines/
WAISTLINES
Different types of Waistlines
1. Natural waistline
This refers to a waistline which rests on your natural waist – that is the narrowest part of your torso, between the rib cage and hips. If you have a small waist, show off your waist with this type of waistline.
2. Antebellum waistline
This is a V shaped waistline; This waistline begins at the natural waistline and then dips about 2 or 2.5 inches below the natural waistline at the center of the front bodice. A very popular waistline for dresses as it can make your body look slender and longer.
3. Asymmetrical waistline
A waistline without a balance; one side of the waistline will be different from the other side. For eg: drop waist on one side and raised on one side.
4. Basque Waistline
A variation of the antebellum waistline. This waistline starts below the natural waistline (some 2 inches or so) and then dips to a V or U shape in the center front of the bodice.
5. Blouson waistline
This is a gathered waistline; the loose folds of the bodice is gathered in a balloon skirt style; the waistline may be gathered at the natural waistline or below it.
6. Dropped waistline
This is a waistline which sits below the natural waist – it could be 3 inches to 12 inches down from the natural waist.
A dropped waistline can bring eyes and attention down to your hips, so if you have anything to avoid at the hips, look for some other waistline. The advantage of this waistline is that it can elongate the torso and can make you look taller.
7. Cinched waistline
This is a waistline which is tapered, made very narrow at the mid-section of the torso, with the help of a wide sash/belt, specially meant for this.
8. Empire waistline
The waistline that starts just under the bust line. This can emphasize your bust so those who do not want to draw attention to this area, avoid. But those who have a small bust can benefit with this waistline.
9 Inverted V/U waistline
This waistline starts at a higher point in the body at the center front ( either at the natural waist, above it or below it) and then dips down at either side of the bodice.
10. Raised waistline
This refers to a waistline which is slightly raised from the natural waist; about 1 inch or so.
Then finally in contrast to all of these, there is the No-Waistline look – it could be a paneled bodice with no waistline or a simple slip bodice. A princess line dress/tent dress etc have this look of having no waistline to speak of.
Reference
https://www.weddinglds.com/modest-wedding-dresses/types-of-waistlines-for-modest-wedding-dresses/
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